Rechenberg 2015秋冬系列——藏區(qū)女性的頌歌

Designer Kathrin von Rechenberg’s Autumn/Winter 2015 Collection is inspired by the fabrics, colours and styles worn by women on the Tibetan plateau.

Beijing, 17 September, 2015: Followers of Rechenberg for the past 10 years and more have come to expect surprises in her two annual signature collections. The designs she has conceived for her latest Autumn/Winter Collection do not disappoint. A recent trip to the Tibetan plateau has clearly left a deep impression, inspiring remarkable, designs any woman would find it hard to resist – clothes that can be worn season after season for their timeless beauty and elegance.

The Collection was shown in her showroom, redecorated for the occasion with long felt bands of differing lengths to suggest at once the intimacy of a Tibetan temple or the warm interior of a Yurt and the infinity of the Tibetan plain or fluttering Tibetan flags.

The fabrics she works with include Cashmere, Merino wool and silk, woollen jersey and boiled wool. This year, however, there is the added excitement of soft, handmade felt made from the hair of the Yak, the huge, hairy beast that grazes over so much of the Tibetan plateau and is a staple of the Tibetan tribal economy for its soft hair, milk and meat.

Tibetan tribal women wear clothes designed for warmth and comfort. They must also be practical to allow their wearers to carry out their daily work, often outdoors in the chilly climate conditions of vast open plains. Yet they remain striking and timelessly elegant in their muted, earthy colours drawn from a palette that has black as its base and includes mustard, rust, iron grey, the orangey-red hues of Tibetan coral and of course the soft grey-beige of natural Yak. All these colours are to be found in the latest Rechenberg collection for Autum/Winter 2015.

Kathrin has taken the best of their features and characteristics to produce a classic and timelessly elegant collection in which coats and jackets are very long and draped, with close-fitting, cosy necklines. Trousers are wide and worn just above the ankle, often paired with blouses made of silk organza and tea-silk, that manage at once to be both voluminous and closely draped, combining raglan with spiral-cut, leg-of-mutton sleeves for a neatly fitted, draped look that is clearly very comfortable and practical. Coats and jackets are fastened with simple silver and blackened silver brooches, a nod at the jewels worn by Tibetan women, that are often family heirlooms. The overall look is softly falling, draped fabrics executed with sophisticated haute-couture detailing to envelope the wearer. This is contrasted with the feathery finery of natural hand-dyed organza and tea-silk mostly used for her evening wear designs.

Kathrin von Rechenberg’s constants have long been to focus on what is natural and sustainable. She has drawn her creativity for this collection from long-established Tibetan traditions, combined with the best that Nature has to offer, in this case, the wondrous colours of the immense Tibetan plateau, the handsome women who grace it and the cosy, comfortable clothes they wear. What better combination could one find for an Autumn/Winter collection!

在RECHENBERG2015秋冬系列中，設(shè)計(jì)師凱瑟琳的靈感源于甘南藏區(qū)女性的節(jié)日盛裝般的日常穿著和她們與生俱來的驕傲，并從中汲取精髓，打造出這一季擁有舒適面料、獨(dú)特顏色和考究剪裁的rechenberg服裝。

2015.9.17，北京，Rechenberg十幾年來的朋友們都翹首以待，rechenberg秋冬系列又將為他們帶來怎樣的驚喜?果然，設(shè)計(jì)師Kathrin的作品從來都沒有令它們失望。一次藏區(qū)之行，給Kathrin留下了深刻的印象，也啟發(fā)著她去創(chuàng)造所有女性都難以抵抗的其魅力的，代表著永恒美麗與優(yōu)雅的服飾。

發(fā)布會(huì)在Rechenberg工作室內(nèi)舉行。這一次，觀眾們步入了一個(gè)由長短不一的黑色氈帶布置的神秘意境。置身其中，您仿佛感觸得到藏族寺廟的神圣，游牧民族帳篷的溫暖，也許在某一瞬間，您也會(huì)覺得他們恰似那廣袤的草原上飄動(dòng)的經(jīng)幡。

對于秋冬季節(jié)的服飾，rechenberg慣用的面料包括克什米爾羊絨、美利堅(jiān)羊毛、真絲、羊毛絨和強(qiáng)縮絨等。而在這一季中，我們將有幸感受另一種面料—柔軟舒適的手工制牦牛氈絨面料的魅力。牦牛是一種生長在藏區(qū)高原上的多毛畜種，以其柔軟豐富的毛發(fā)和肉、奶等成為生活在高原上的人們的主要經(jīng)濟(jì)來源。

藏族女性的服飾更多的是為了滿足保暖和舒適的需求，同時(shí)也因其常常要在寒冷開闊的戶外條件下工作，還要確保服飾的實(shí)用性。即便如此，那樸實(shí)柔和的顏色還是賦予了衣物以恒久的美感和足以動(dòng)人的力量。這些顏色以黑色為基底，調(diào)以芥黃、銹色、鐵灰、橙紅等藏區(qū)人們所崇尚的珊瑚色調(diào)，當(dāng)然也有野生牦牛的淺褐色毛發(fā)的顏色。所有的這些顏色都在Rechengberg2015秋冬時(shí)裝發(fā)布會(huì)上得到精彩的呈現(xiàn)。

Kathrin從藏區(qū)女性的氣質(zhì)中獲得靈感，打造出這一季典雅，復(fù)古的秋冬時(shí)裝系列。修長垂順的大衣常常擁有合體舒適的領(lǐng)口。寬松及踝的長褲與歐根紗和香云紗面料上裝的搭配產(chǎn)生了迷人自然的褶皺，加之極富特色的旋轉(zhuǎn)袖插肩大衣，舒適且實(shí)用。大衣和夾克由簡潔的銀質(zhì)胸針固定，與藏族女性佩戴的通常作為傳家寶的首飾相呼應(yīng)。與慣用手工染制的歐根紗和香云紗打造的華服相比，這些柔軟垂順的面料以及精致的高級定制工藝為穿著者提供了更舒適的穿著體驗(yàn)。

Kathrin一直著眼于崇尚自然和可持續(xù)發(fā)展的理念。在這一季的發(fā)布會(huì)中，她從歷史悠久的藏族文化中汲取靈感，探尋著那片廣袤天地間瑰麗的色彩和藏族女性所具有的融入靈魂的榮耀和端莊。所有的這些自然饋贈(zèng)與人類的智慧結(jié)合的產(chǎn)物都在Rechenberg2015秋冬發(fā)布會(huì)上一睹為快!

Brooches are made in collaboration with Nicolas Favard.

The musicians, who interpreted the inspiration of the collection beautifully with their instruments, are:

Flutes - Wang Hua

Zither - Lao Luo

銀質(zhì)胸針合作者：法國首飾設(shè)計(jì)師尼古拉•法瓦赫。

笛簫演奏家王華和音樂家老鑼為大家?guī)�來的遼闊空靈，意味綿長的現(xiàn)場音樂。